(Written by our friends, Gene & Charlotte, our moral support team at the base of Mt. Rainier) 

 

Noel Hall and the Judge Wilson returned again this year to attempt the summit of Mount Rainier.  We had met Noel while diving in the Maldives and just met The Judge last year in their first attempt.  Last year the weather on the mountain in August was horribly windy so another attempt was in the cards. 

 

This year they were blessed with beautiful weather here in the center of July.  Matter of fact we do not remember any other time that I have been able to see the summit of Rainier every day for six days running. 

 

The climbers departed on Monday, 14 July at about 1000 hours for their first night at Camp Muir located above Paradise at about 10,500 feet.  The next day they went to Ingraham Flats near the bottom edge of Desperation Cleaver (11,200 feet) for some training and another night’s sleep. 

 

On the afternoon of 15 July Charlotte and I walked up a trail from D loop of the White River campground where we were camped in the dirt.  We probably only went a mile because the trail was badly washed out from the 2006 fall floods.  In many places it was difficult to even try to figure where the trail went except up.  There were a few yellow markers showing where someone had walked before so we sort of followed them.  We found an opening in the trees which allowed us to see the mountain.  From there we could not see the top half of Disappointment Cleaver, but Judge an Noel were to be bivouacked at the bottom end of the cleaver for the night. 

 

Just happened that Noel called me on his cell and we were able to talk about how the climb was going and where they were to spend the night.  

 

We walked back to the campground and drove to Sunrise (1 mile to our north) above timber line to try to get a  view of the bivouac area.  Noel and Judge and I had been there on Sunday to eyeball the mountain and it was a great view.  Sure enough we were able to get a good view of the bivouac area (or at least I hope this is the area).  On the right side you will see Disappointment Cleaver and in the dead center of the photo you will see 4 or 5 large tents.  To the right of them and slightly above you might be able to make out 4 small tents where Judge and Noel were to spend the night. 

 

On the morning of 16 July I got up at 0520 partly because I was unable to sleep and partly because I could see that there was sunlight somewhere up there above the trees. 

 

Once dressed and outside I could see the bright sunlight on the mountain and see the clear blue sky overhead.  I unlocked the car and got out the sniper scope and tripod then packed up a freshly brewed thermos of coffee, grabbed a comfortable chair and headed for a spot opposite camp site D21 at White River campground which we had looked at the previous day. 

 

By 0535 I was seated with a full view of the southeast corner of the mountain which is where the climbers were scheduled to be at that hour.  I knew that 8 climbers and 3 guides had left Paradise on Monday and that they had picked up an additional guide at Camp Muir.  But Noel had called yesterday afternoon and told me that one of the climbers had an eye problem and a guide had gone back with him to Paradise.  That would have left 7 climbers and 3 guides so I was certain that there would be a group of 10 climbers.  I knew that they planned to leave their camp this morning at midnight or 0100 hours.  So I dialed the scope in and sure enough there was a line of 10 climbers about 1000 feet below and heading for what Charlotte and I called "the Ice Wall" the previous day.  Behind them, about 500 feet, was another group of 6 climbers.

The light was very flat at that hour in the morning and there was virtually no thermal distortion caused by the heat rising from the snow and ice so I had the clearest view yet of the people on the mountain.  Judge had mentioned that Noel would be wearing an orange parka so he was easy to spot.  Sure enough there was Noel bring up the rear of the column.  The Judge and Noel arrived at the Ice Wall about ten minutes after the first in the party.  I could see Judge talking to Noel as he approached the wall.  Finally Noel chipped the last 3 or 4 steps into the ice and he was on the level area at the base of the wall.  

 

They were at about 13,500 feet and there was at least a 15 minute rest stop when the first two jack rabbets started for the summit.  The Judge was the next to the last to leave.  He stopped and looked back at Noel.  I started saying to myself, "Come on Noel, take that first step!"  I said it again and again and finally he took the first step and then another and another and he was on his way to the top.  They passed out of sight and then back to where I could just see their top half as they trudged on to Columbia summit. 

 

Checking the map it looked like they would be out of sight for the rest of the way to the summit.  About that time, Charlotte showed up and asked if I would like some breakfast.  Following breakfast I searched several times but could not locate their descent.  We packed up the car and left the campsite at 1100 hours.

 

On the road back in from Ohanapecosh entrance we stopped and surveyed the mountain, but could not pick up our group of 10.  Finally about 2 miles from Paradise we set up the scope again and Charlotte counted 33 climbers going up and down the mountain between Paradise and Camp Muir (see photo).

We were back at Paradise by about 1400 hours and waited for the group to descend.  We went to the restroom, we had a sandwich, we tried to sleep, we watched the tourists, and went to the restroom again.  The first three or four climbers an a guide showed up at the Alpine Ascents van.  We chatted with them and found that all climbers had made the summit.  We congratulated them and went back to our perch at the lodge.  Then we went to the restroom and came back to see a couple more climbers arrive. 

 

At last at 1810 hours the Judge arrives and a few minutes later Noel arrived.  Guess it goes without saying that he was pooped.  He was able to walk across the parking lot to the lodge where he sat down and I don’t think he moved a muscle for the next hour.  Nope he was able to lift a beer and then a Champaign glass several times.  Noel and Judge (right) tell us their tale from several angles for the entire hour or so.  They had been scheduled to return home on the redeye that night, but there was room at the inn and they decided to stay the night there and have their first decent meal in three days.

Charlotte and I had to return home as she was having a problem with a crown installed on her lower left a week before.  Would have liked to stay there and shared their experience even more, but we had to boogie. 

 

What a great opportunity Charlotte and I had to share their great climb vicariously through Judge and Noel.  They have said that they will not be out here to climb Rainier again.  I can assure you that there is another 14,000 footer or above that they have in mind instead of this little hill. 

 

Photographers note:  Looking at the objects through the sniper scope provides a far better image than the photo.  With the scope moving a bit and the camera moving a bit they degrade considerably over the real image.  I could not see their lips move but I could clearly see arm and leg movements.  I was certainly able to see the work of all of the climbers in the team to make sure all of the climbers were successful.  All's well that ends well.